This article is focused on providing additional value, more details on deciduous bonsai care and reminding us of important details as provided in Bjorn Bjorholm's very instructional video.
(This is a recovery from an earlier article that I unfortunately lost. The article will grow over time while I am reassebling its content. Thank you for bearing with me)
What we do to get better ramification
Pruning Back to The First Two Leafs
The rule of thumb to improve ramification is to cut back after the first two leafs after the first flush of growth has hardened off.
- Chinese Quince (Pseudosydonia chinensis) has a susoba (bud less leaf) and should not be counted as the "first two leafs".
Defoliation
After having pruned back to the first two leafs, you can perform defoliation. When you do, stop fertilizing your tree until the leaves have fully regrown. Then start fertilizing again.
Trees recommended for defolation:
- Trident maple can be defoliated up to 4 times a year (on average in May, end of June, end of July) every year. Do hold off on fertilizing until the final defoliation has regrown and hardened off. Also, do watch a good regrowth in between each defoliation or stop defoliating when the tree indicates slow regrowth.
- Apricot, Stewartia, Eleagnus, Chines Quince, Japanese Quince, Elms, Zelkova, Hackberry.
Trees we should not defoliate: (most) japanese maples, hornbeam, beech, crabapple, cherry
Cutting Back Hard
What is the best time to do major cut backs?
End of May/early June is the best time to prune branches hard. Do keep in mind to keep cut backs below 2 inches (6 cm). Larger cut backs require special attention, for it takes a considerable time for those to heal up.
Do note that late autumn / winter is the worst time to do major cut backs, for the tree has no resources to heal up, wounds will dry up and create ugly swelling.
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